The cultural heart of Korea — 700 traditional hanok houses, the birthplace of bibimbap, Pansori music and the finest traditional food in the country
Flight Time
11–12h from London (fly to Seoul; then 1h30 by KTX to Jeonju)
Best Time
April–May (spring) or September–November (autumn); avoid summer weekends (crowds)
Country
South Korea
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Jeonju is the cultural heart of South Korea — a city of 650,000 people in the North Jeolla province that is the birthplace of bibimbap (Korea's most famous dish), the home of the largest surviving hanok (traditional Korean house) village in the country, and one of the most important centres of Korean traditional arts, crafts, music and food.
The Jeonju Hanok Village (Jeonju Hanok Maeul) is the centrepiece — a neighbourhood of 700 traditional Korean houses with their distinctive curved tile roofs, built in the early 20th century as a deliberate act of cultural resistance against Japanese colonial rule. The village is the most visited tourist attraction in South Korea outside Seoul and Jeju, and has a completely different atmosphere from the modern Korean cities — quiet, atmospheric and deeply rooted in Korean tradition.
Jeonju is also the birthplace of the Joseon dynasty (the royal family that ruled Korea from 1392 to 1897 was from Jeonju) — the Gyeonggijeon Shrine, which houses the portrait of King Taejo (the founder of the Joseon dynasty), is in the heart of the hanok village. The Jeonju International Film Festival (held annually in May) is one of the most important independent film festivals in Asia.
Jeonju is 1h30 from Seoul by KTX — an excellent day trip or 1–2 night stop.
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Jeonju Hanok Village (Jeonju Hanok Maeul) is the most important and best-preserved traditional Korean neighbourhood in the country — a district of 700 hanok (traditional Korean houses) with their distinctive curved tile roofs, wooden lattice windows and courtyard gardens, built in the early 20th century. The village is most atmospheric in the early morning (before the day-trippers arrive) and at night (when the lanterns are lit and the streets are quiet). Rent a hanbok (traditional Korean dress) from one of the many rental shops in the village for free entry to some attractions and extraordinary photographs.
Jeonju is the birthplace of bibimbap — Korea's most famous dish, and Jeonju bibimbap is considered the finest in the country. The Jeonju version uses a stone bowl (dolsot) heated until the rice at the bottom becomes crispy, topped with 30+ ingredients including namul (seasoned vegetables), beef, a raw egg yolk and gochujang chilli paste. The best bibimbap restaurants are in the Hanok Village (Gajok Hoegwan, Hangukjip) and around the Nambu Market. Jeonju is also famous for its kongnamul gukbap (bean sprout rice soup), its makgeolli (rice wine) and its extraordinary street food.
Gyeonggijeon Shrine, in the heart of the Hanok Village, is the most important historical site in Jeonju — a complex of halls and gardens built in 1410 to house the portrait of King Taejo (Yi Seonggye), the founder of the Joseon dynasty (1392–1897). The portrait (one of only a handful of surviving royal portraits from the Joseon period) is housed in the main hall. The shrine also contains the Joseon Royal Family History Museum and a beautiful garden. The Jeonju Hyanggyo (a Confucian school built in 1603) is adjacent to the shrine.
Jeonju is the most important centre of hanji (traditional Korean paper) production in Korea — a craft that has been practised in the city for over 1,000 years. Hanji is made from the inner bark of the mulberry tree (dak) and is extraordinarily strong, flexible and durable — it has been used for books, paintings, screens, fans, lanterns, clothing and even armour. The Jeonju Hanji Museum (in the Hanok Village) tells the history of the craft and has demonstrations of the paper-making process. The Jeonju Hanji Festival (held annually in May) is the most important hanji event in Korea.
Pansori is a form of Korean musical storytelling — a single performer (sorikkun) accompanied by a drummer (gosu) who narrates a long dramatic story through singing, speaking and gesture, using a fan as a prop. Pansori was inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2003. Jeonju is the most important centre of Pansori in Korea — the city has produced many of the greatest Pansori masters and has numerous venues for performances. The National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts in Jeonju offers regular performances.
Omokdae and Imokdae are two hilltop pavilions above the Hanok Village that offer the finest views over the village and the city. Omokdae was built in 1380 to commemorate a victory by General Yi Seonggye (later King Taejo, the founder of the Joseon dynasty) over Japanese pirates — the general celebrated his victory here before marching to Seoul to found the new dynasty. The pavilions are reached by a 10-minute walk from the Hanok Village. The views are most beautiful at sunset and in autumn when the surrounding trees turn red and gold.
Jeonju's Makgeolli Alley (Makgeolli Golmok), near the Nambu Market, is the most atmospheric drinking destination in the city — a narrow alley of traditional makgeolli (rice wine) bars that serve the milky, slightly fizzy rice wine with an extraordinary array of free side dishes (pajeon scallion pancakes, dubu kimchi, japchae, tteokbokki). The tradition in Jeonju is that the more you drink, the more side dishes you receive — a uniquely generous Korean hospitality tradition. The alley is most lively on Friday and Saturday evenings.
Nambu Market (South Market), in the centre of Jeonju, is the most important traditional market in the city — a covered market of food stalls, clothing shops, craft vendors and restaurants that has been operating for over 100 years. The night market (held on Fridays and Saturdays from 7pm) is the best street food experience in Jeonju — tteokbokki, hotteok, gimbap, bindaetteok, jeon (Korean pancakes) and dozens of other dishes are served from stalls in the market. The Nambu Market is also the best place to buy Jeonju's famous kongnamul (bean sprouts) and gochujang (chilli paste).
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